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Critical success factors and external support of retailing fashion design entrepreneurs : a comparison between selected areas in Germany and South Africa

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This study presented a comparative analysis of the critical success factors of fashion design entrepreneurs within the retail industry, focusing on the distinct markets of South Africa and Germany. The recognised problem was that the specific critical success factors for retailing fashion design entrepreneurs had not been clearly identified, making it difficult to assess the influence and relevance of available external support. Therefore, this study pinpointed these critical success factors and determined how external support can be optimised to effectively direct resources towards the factors. There were thus two main assumptions to this study; first, for retailing fashion design entrepreneurs to succeed, they required external support. The second assumption was that institutions or organisations supporting fashion design entrepreneurs aimed to influence the critical success factors of fashion businesses significantly. Through a comprehensive examination of the various theories, this study aimed to bridge the gap in existing literature, offering a perspective on the interplay between retail strategies, intrinsic factors, and external support mechanisms across different countries. Overall, one framework and four theories were integrated throughout this study: the natural selection theory, retail mix framework (in relation to the retail strategy matrix), and the kano model, applied for the conceptualisation and analysis of this study; the shopping preference theory and the balanced scorecard theory implemented for interpretation purposes and to offer a clear industry and academic outline. The explanatory mixed-methods approach that blended quantitative and qualitative analyses was adopted to determine the critical influences of localised support strategies for retailing fashion design entrepreneurs. First, a consumer survey was conducted in both South Africa (n = 511) and Germany (n = 532) to determine critical success factors of retailing fashion design entrepreneurs from a market perspective. A non-probability sampling with quotas was conducted in this respect, to ensure representativeness. Second, retailing fashion designers were interviewed in South Africa (n = 9) and Germany (n = 6) to evaluate the influence and relevance of external support, in relation to the critical success factors identified with consumers. The limitations and delimitations of this study were due to the depth and breadth shaped by the sample size, quotas reached, the operationalisation construct applied and the reach of the geographical area. For instance, the factors operationalised were based solely on the retail mix, while the quota (for the sample size) predominantly represented LSM 7 in South Africa and a monthly net household income between € 3001 to € 5000 in Germany. Additionally, the limited scope of geographic areas studied, only included South Africa and Germany to draw comparative insights from two markedly different market environments. The findings revealed, while there were common critical success factors across both markets, which were the retail place, slow fashion products, and refocusing of price, there were also distinct differences influenced by local market dynamics, consumer behaviour, and the availability of external support. For instance, in South Africa, the emphasis on leveraging local identity and overcoming logistical challenges stood out; whereas in Germany, the focus was more on technological adoption and integration into the global market. This comparative study highlighted the importance of contextspecific strategies and the adaptability of fashion design entrepreneurs to their unique retail market conditions. The implications of this research provided valuable insights; first for fashion designers, by providing critical factors they should focus on in retail to leverage consumer patronage, which is omnichannel retailing as a form of place and functional slow fashion products. While for external support organisations, industry, retail stakeholders, and policymakers, the study provided clear outlines for crafting supportive ecosystems that nurture entrepreneurship and economic growth within the fashion retail sector. For example, providing streamlined and less bureaucratic processes, centralised information hubs related to support available, and a financing structure for retailing fashion design entrepreneurs in South Africa and Germany. For the scientific community, this study offered a unique perspective of the retail mix within the context of retailing fashion design entrepreneurs, providing streamlined retail mix factors found through exploratory factor analysis. As a result, instead of 6Ps, this study found retailing fashion design entrepreneurs should focus on 5Ps as their retail mix and 2Ps as critical success factors. In summary, this study advocated for an integrated approach combining academic theories with strategic business practices for external support organisations, tailored to each market's critical success factors for retailing fashion design entrepreneurs.

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Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Marketing and Retail Management, Durban University of Technology, Durban, South Africa, 2025

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https://doi.org/10.51415/10321/6261